{"id":5854,"date":"2025-03-25T08:01:00","date_gmt":"2025-03-25T07:01:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/?p=5854"},"modified":"2025-03-26T13:22:31","modified_gmt":"2025-03-26T12:22:31","slug":"hn006-sartorial-mozart-naples-and-beyond","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/2025\/03\/hn006-sartorial-mozart-naples-and-beyond\/","title":{"rendered":"HN006 SARTORIAL MOZART \u2013 NAPLES AND BEYOND"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

HN006 SARTORIAL MOZART \u2013 NAPLES AND BEYOND<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Drawing\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

It is well known that Mozart took an interest in his appearance, his hair and his clothes. This started at an early age, encouraged by his father Leopold, who like his son, was aware that to make it \u2018in the world\u2019, one had to not just have the talent and product of that talent, but also look the part as well.<\/p><\/div><\/div>

In 1770 when Amadeus and Leopold were touring Italy, (Amadeus being just a few months into his fifteenth year), Leopold wrote his wife on the 19th May, \u2018We left our fine cloth suits in Rome and have had to wear our beautifully braided summer suits. Wolfg.\u2019s is made of pink moir\u00e9, but the colour is so unusual that in Italy it\u2019s called colore di fuoco<\/i>, or flame-coloured: with silver lace and lined with a light sky-blue material. My suit is a kind of cinnamon colour, piqu\u00e9d Florentine cloth, with silver lace and lined in apple green. Both suits are very beautiful, \u2026\u2019[i]<\/sup><\/a><\/p>

In Italy, home of fashion, the sartorial purchases didn\u2019t end at Naples that year. By the 22nd December Leopold wrote again, \u2018Can you imagine Wolfg. in a scarlet suit with gold braid and sky-blue satin lining? The tailor is starting work on it today. He\u2019<\/span>ll be wearing this suit on the first 3 days, when he sits at the keyboard. The one that was made for him in Salzburg. is too short by a standing hand, and certainly too tight and small.\u2019 Ask yourself; were the clothes from the following year already too small for Amadeus or was the delight of wearing a scarlet suit with gold braid too irresistible?[ii]<\/sup><\/a><\/p>

This of course wasn\u2019t the only occasion that a red suit<\/i> caught the Maestro\u2019s eye. Much later when no longer with his father who remained in Salzburg, Amadeus wrote, \u2018As for the beautiful red coat that tickles my fancy so dreadfully, I\u2019d be grateful if you could let me know where I can get it<\/i> and how much it costs<\/i>, as I\u2019ve forgotten – I was so taken with its beauty that I didn\u2019t notice the price. – I really have to have a coat like that, as it\u2019s worth it just for the buttons that I\u2019ve been hankering after for some time;..\u2019[iii]<\/sup><\/a> He went on in the same letter of 28 September 1782 (now 26 years of age) to complain, \u201cI\u2019d like to have everything that is good and beautiful! – But why is it that those who are not in a position to do so want to spend all their money on such things, whereas those who are<\/i> in a position to do so do not do so?\u2019 But before we judge him, or accuse him of envy, remember this was the era before the French Revolution. It was an age of enlightenment, fashion and wit. Clothes made the man.<\/p>

And now to his hair! In September 1777 Amadeus was in Munich. Count Seeau was the Director of Opera at the Electoral Court. Mozart wrote his father, \u2018We were already up again at 7 on the 25th, but my hair was in such a mess that it wasn\u2019<\/span>t until 1\/2 past 10 that I arrived at Count Seeau\u2019<\/span>s\u2026\u2019[iv]<\/sup><\/a> Three and half hours after starting his hair it was done! Talk about a bad-hair day.<\/p>

Marriage and domesticity may have changed Mozart\u2019s sartorial ambition, but \u2018After the Honeymoon the Laundry\u2019,<\/i> and we find him writing his wife Constanze on the 8th October 1791, \u2019N.B.: You presumably sent the 2 pairs of yellow winter breeches that go with the boots to the laundry as Joseph and I have looked for them in vain.\u2019[v]<\/sup><\/a> This was just two months before his untimely death.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/p><\/div><\/div>

\u00a0<\/p><\/div>

[i]<\/span><\/sup><\/a> WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART A LIFE IN LETTERS – MOZART,W.A., EDITED BY EISEN, CLIFF.,\u00a0 TRANSLATED BY SPENCER, STEWART, PENGUIN BOOKS LONDON (2006). P.200<\/p><\/div>

[ii]<\/span><\/sup><\/a> IBID.P123<\/p><\/div>

[iii]<\/span><\/sup><\/a> IBID. P.458<\/p><\/div>

[iv]<\/span><\/sup><\/a> IBID. P.163<\/p><\/div>

[v]<\/span><\/sup><\/a> IBID. P.566<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

CHECK OUT THE VOICE DETECTIVE SHOW <\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

EPISODE 10<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

THE ART OF NEAPOLITAN TAYLORING<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\u00a0<\/p><\/div>

In the world of high-class bespoke tailoring, Mariano Rubinacci combines a long family tradition of elegant, comfortable tailoring with the indisputable eye of an artist. He just doesn\u2019t produce artisan clothing, but adds another dimension to the world of intelligent, aesthetic and well-considered fashion.<\/p><\/div>

\u00a0<\/p><\/div>

Mariano took over the family tailoring firm at the very young age of 18 in 1961 after his father died. He learned one might say, by doing. His eye for a good profile, the way clothing should enhance the \u2018bella figura<\/i>\u2019 of a client, and the informed advice he provided,\u00a0 continued the fine tradition embodied in the Rubinacci name. His father, who had started the firm in 1930, had been sartorial arbiter to Neapolitan society, and decided to start producing clothing for his friends and acquaintances, importing the finest wools and silks. Mariano and now his son Luca, continue this tradition. His other children too are involved intimately with the house of Rubinacci.<\/p><\/div>

\u00a0<\/p><\/div>

Just like his father before him, Mariano has tailored the most beautiful clothing for a virtual who\u2019s who of the world of the arts, culture and politics.<\/p><\/div>

\u00a0<\/p><\/div>

Mariano is a proud Neapolitan. He feels in his being a Neapolitan wherever he is. The Neapolitan tradition of fine tailoring and style is what he seeks to bring to the wider world. To quote Mariano himself, \u2018Leaving Naples to stay in Naples. Selling Naples throughout the world. This is one of my greatest aspirations. To make others understand our aesthetic sense.\u2019<\/p><\/div>

\u00a0<\/p><\/div>

Today, the house of Rubinacci is found in Naples, Milan and London.<\/p><\/div>

\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It is well known that Mozart took an interest in his appearance, his hair and his clothes. This started at an early age, encouraged by his father Leopold, who like his son, was aware that to make it \u2018in the world\u2019, one had to not just have the talent and product of that talent, but also look the part as well. <\/p>\n

In 1770 when Amadeus and Leopold were touring Italy, (Amadeus being just a few months into his fifteenth year), Leopold wrote his wife on the 19th May, \u2018We left our fine cloth suits in Rome and have had to wear our beautifully braided summer suits. Wolfg.\u2019s is made of pink moir\u00e9, but the colour is so unusual that in Italy it\u2019s called colore di fuoco, or flame-coloured: with silver lace and lined with a light sky-blue material. My suit is a kind of cinnamon colour, piqu\u00e9d Florentine cloth, with silver lace and lined in apple green. Both suits are very beautiful, \u2026\u2019 <\/p>\n

In Italy, home of fashion, the sartorial purchases didn\u2019t end at Naples that year. By the 22nd December Leopold wrote again, \u2018Can you imagine Wolfg. in a scarlet suit with gold braid and sky-blue satin lining? The tailor is starting work on it today. He\u2019ll be wearing this suit on the first 3 days, when he sits at the keyboard. The one that was made for him in Salzburg. is too short by a standing hand, and certainly too tight and small.\u2019 Ask yourself; were the clothes from the following year already too small for Amadeus or was the delight of wearing a scarlet suit with gold braid too irresistible? <\/p>\n

This of course wasn\u2019t the only occasion that a red suit caught the Maestro\u2019s eye. Much later when no longer with his father who remained in Salzburg, Amadeus wrote, \u2018As for the beautiful red coat that tickles my fancy so dreadfully, I\u2019d be grateful if you could let me know where I can get it and how much it costs, as I\u2019ve forgotten – I was so taken with its beauty that I didn\u2019t notice the price. – I really have to have a coat like that, as it\u2019s worth it just for the buttons that I\u2019ve been hankering after for some time;..\u2019 He went on in the same letter of 28 September 1782 (now 26 years of age) to complain, \u201cI\u2019d like to have everything that is good and beautiful! – But why is it that those who are not in a position to do so want to spend all their money on such things, whereas those who are in a position to do so do not do so?\u2019 But before we judge him, or accuse him of envy, remember this was the era before the French Revolution. It was an age of enlightenment, fashion and wit. Clothes made the man.<\/p>\n

And now to his hair! In September 1777 Amadeus was in Munich. Count Seeau was the Director of Opera at the Electoral Court. Mozart wrote his father, \u2018We were already up again at 7 on the 25th, but my hair was in such a mess that it wasn\u2019t until 1\/2 past 10 that I arrived at Count Seeau\u2019s\u2026\u2019 Three and half hours after starting his hair it was done! Talk about a bad-hair day.<\/p>\n

Marriage and domesticity may have changed Mozart\u2019s sartorial ambition, but \u2018After the Honeymoon the Laundry\u2019, and we find him writing his wife Constanze on the 8th October 1791, \u2019N.B.: You presumably sent the 2 pairs of yellow winter breeches that go with the boots to the laundry as Joseph and I have looked for them in vain.\u2019 This was just two months before his untimely death.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4464,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"give_campaign_id":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[66],"tags":[65],"class_list":["post-5854","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","tag-front-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5854","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5854"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5854\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4464"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5854"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5854"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voicedetective.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5854"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}